The beginning of sushi is “narezushi”
How to make sushi
Originally, sushi was a method of processing exotic fish that originated in Southeast Asia, and is said to have been introduced to Japan from China with the introduction of rice cultivation. When fish, shellfish, and meat (wild boar and deer) are heavily salted and soaked in cooked rice for months, the rice turns into sugar and undergoes lactic acid fermentation, creating a unique sour taste. During this time, animal proteins such as fish meat self-decompose and become delicious, and this lactic acid soaks into the food, increasing its preservability and making it more delicious to eat. In other words, it is a type of storage method for animal protein. In this case, the rice is pickled, not eaten. This sushi is called “Narezushi” in Japan, and Funazushi, which is still made in the coastal area of Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture, is thought to be the best example of this sushi.
On the other hand, Kabura-zushi (a specialty of Kanazawa), which is made by adding koji to rice and fermenting salted fish meat, is a different type of food called izushi.
Narezushi was used as a tribute to the imperial court in ancient times. During the Nara period, there are records of tribute of abalone, mussels, and Thai sushi from the Omi and Wakasa provinces. In the Heian period, various types of narezushi such as sweetfish, crucian carp, salmon, abalone, and mussels from other parts of western Japan and the Tokai region were ordered to be paid as taxes. The sushi collected in the capital was distributed to the nobles of the imperial court, but it was not something that the common people could eat. However, it cannot be overlooked that the Japanese people’s fondness for sour flavors lies within the act of making narezushi. Originally invented in the rice-growing region of the Mekong plains in Southeast Asia, narezushi used freshwater fish, but it was introduced to Japan and began to be pickled with sea fish and shellfish. There is a hint that there will be an abundance of ingredients for nigiri sushi.
history of sushi
As time progressed and we entered the Muromachi period, this narezushi began to undergo major changes. This is the appearance of “Namazushi.” It is also called “hannare”. This sushi is not marinated for a long time like Narezushi, but is marinated for a relatively short period of time and eaten before the sourness develops in the rice. You can also eat rice. Therefore, the salty and sour taste of rice itself came to be enjoyed, and the materials used for pickling expanded to include not only fish and shellfish but also vegetables and wild plants. If you alternately marinate the salted fish and rice in a sushi bucket, cover with a lid, and weigh it down, the slight sourness will soak in within a few days. It is the prototype of oshizushi and hakozushi that are passed down in various places today.
When this happens, the desire to eat delicious food as soon as possible becomes stronger. Especially in the Edo period, when rice vinegar became widely available, it became possible to quickly sprinkle this vinegar on food to create a sour taste. It is said that Zenpo Matsumoto, who served as the official doctor of the shogunate during the Edo period and Genroku era, greatly popularized this method. This is “hayazushi”. Eventually, Kokezushi, boxed sushi, sasamaki sushi, and persimmon leaf sushi were frequently made at home, but it took several times to weigh them down and let the flavors meld. It took me a while or a night. Still, there were people who couldn’t wait, so nigiri sushi was improved so that they could eat it quickly.
In modern terms, instant sushi is eaten as soon as it is made. The roots of this are sasamaki and persimmon leaf sushi. These are made by stacking the toppings and vinegared rice and wrapping them in bamboo leaves or persimmon leaves to preserve the food and prevent the rice from sticking together. Put it in a box and press it to blend the flavors. During the Bunsei period, when Japanese cuisine was reaching its perfection, Hanaya Yohei, a sushi restaurant in Ryogoku, removed the sushi kimono and exposed it to the naked body, and served it with boiled or vinegared toppings and vinegared rice. If you look at the original drawing, the nigiri was really big, and the amount of vinegared rice was about the same as today’s nigirime, and to make it easier to eat, it was cut into two or three pieces. For this reason, even today’s smaller nigiri sushi is a remnant of the past, with 2 or 3 pieces per plate.
This nigiri sushi became very popular in Edo, where many quick-tempered people gathered, and eventually began to replace oshizushi and boxed sushi. Even in the Meiji era, these nigiri seeds were called “namamono hazuke” and were flavored by soaking them in soy sauce or vinegar. Later, I used sashimi for the seeds and brushed them with boiled soy sauce. It was also painted by a sushi chef. It is only recently that we dip the toppings in soy sauce and eat them. The appeal of nigiri sushi is the fun of having the sushi made with toppings tailored to your taste, the fun of seeing the skill of the sushi chef, the ease of transporting it right away, and the deliciousness of the sashimi. Overall, when making nigiri sushi, we place importance on the toppings, and in order to avoid overdoing the toppings in making vinegared rice, we do not use sticky, high-quality rice. Although this is a quick nigiri sushi technique, the basics of pressing are strictly followed. Pressing is the key to sushi.
On the other hand, as early sushi made by soaking rice in vinegar has become popular in households, each region has started producing chirashi (chirashi), boxed sushi, and other types of sushi that utilize local specialties such as fish, vegetables, and dried foods. Sushi developed and became established as a local cuisine associated with festivals and other events. I believe that behind this, there is a uniquely Japanese food preference that enjoys sourness, and a sense of delicacy that resembles a religious belief in respecting seasonality and unsalted (fresh) fish. Our management ability to maintain the freshness of seafood is the best in the world. This is a technique made by people who love raw fish.
In any case, sushi, which was born in Southeast Asia and underwent a great transformation in Japan, has evolved from time-consuming and complex nigiri sushi to simple and delicious nigiri sushi that can be eaten in a short amount of time. Now, sushi has established its status overseas, and as one of Japan’s most famous dishes, it continues to change in many ways and continues to take new paths.
